Tarte Tatin (French apple tart)
Every now and then, life presents a little gem that nudges you in an unexpected direction. Some of these shifts are subtle, others monumental. This one leans towards the "subtler" end of the spectrum, but nevertheless marks a definite line in the sand.
In 2018, Myles and I had the good fortune of travelling from San Sebastian (Spain) to Saint Jean Pied de Port (France) in our little hire car. We stopped at the seaside town of Saint Jean de Luz for a stretch and wander. During our stroll through the streets, we came upon a humble A-frame sign declaring "Plats du jour - Confit de canard" and an arrow pointing up a small street. Never ones to pass up a chance to dine on duck, we followed the arrow up the slight incline. What we found was a charming little café, seating probably only 20 or so patrons. Each table was dressed with red checked tablecloths, including the large communal table, which had two spare seats. Along one wall, a table groaned under an assortment of incredible-looking desserts, including an eye-catching Tarte Tatin (apple tart). The lunch was a two-course affair, and naturally, we both opted for Confit du canard, served with the crispest lettuce and hand-cut chips. Absolute perfection on a plate!
Myles had set his sights on the apple tart. We had started to chat with the gentleman sitting next to us and his son. His English was flawless - he was Swiss and owned a holiday house in the town. He dined here every day for lunch. In fact, we were probably the only non-locals in the cafe. Much to Myles' disappointment, it was explained that Chef Michel only made one Tarte Tatin a day - the locals didn't ring up to reserve a table, but they did ring to reserve a slice of that tart! Myles missed out, but was thoroughly satisfied with the berry compote he had instead. My rice cream was absolutely sublime.
This experience set us on a quest for the perfect Tarte Tatin. I'm not sure if Myles will ever stop ruing the missed chance to taste Chef Michel's tart, but the journey has undeniably been delectable.
The history of this dish is rather fascinating. It was originally created by two sisters who ran the Hôtel Tatin in Lamotte-Beuvron, Loir-et-Cher in the 1880s. The story of its origin has several variations, but all agree it was an accidental creation that proved immensely popular with guests.
To make a successful Tatin, you need a dish that can go from stovetop to oven. A dish with sloping sides is advantageous for easy turning out, but it's not strictly necessary.
There's debate over whether puff or shortcrust was the original pastry used. I prefer shortcrust to balance out the dish, but you can certainly use either.
I've used Granny Smith apples as they hold their shape well. Originally, the sisters used Reine des Reinetes Pippins and Calvilles. Golden Delicious or Gala apples would also work well. Opt for small apples as they create a better design and fit more snugly when the tart is turned out. Other fruits such as pears, quinces or peaches can also be used.
The tart should be served lukewarm. Traditionally, it's not served with cream or ice cream; one simply savours the sweet caramel of the dish on its own.
To watch my YouTube video of making this dish, click on the link below the recipe.
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