Mushroom arancini with goats cheese

Since being diagnosed with coeliac disease, arancini have been a café delicacy that I've sorely missed. Accompanied by a salad, they're ideal for a light meal. The majority of the ingredients are naturally gluten-free, until you reach the fabulous outer crunch. But let's not get ahead of ourselves.

Arancini are the mouth-watering, multicultural snack that has stood the test of time! Before delving into the delectable details, let's take a stroll down history lane. Sicily, a cultural melting pot of the Mediterranean, was conquered by many, from the Phoenicians to the Byzantines, leading to a richly diverse cuisine. Arancini are a prime example of this. These rice balls have existed since the 10th century, initially as portable food for travellers. Their filling varied, from meats to vegetables, based on availability.

Over time, arancini evolved to include sweet versions filled with ricotta cheese, sugar, and milk. Then, in the 19th century, they gained a tangy twist with the introduction of tomatoes, a recent import from South America. As tomatoes gained popularity, rice balls filled with ragu began to emerge. Today, these remain the most popular variety. Arancini predominantly come in two shapes: round and cone/tear-shaped. The cone-shaped ones pay homage to the magnificent Mount Etna in eastern Sicily, while the round balls are named for their size, akin to a small orange (arancia means “orange” in Italian).

My niece Grace, who is vegan, challenged me last year to reduce our meat consumption and incorporate a few vegetarian days each week. I've spent several months expanding my vegetarian repertoire through trial and error. Goat's cheese and mushrooms are a classic pairing that works excellently in this recipe.

The key to gluten-free success is achieving that wonderful crisp coating. Panko crumbs are Japanese, made from steamed, crustless loaves of bread that are processed into flakes and dried. This results in large, flaky breadcrumbs that don't pack together, ensuring that the food stays crispier for longer. Panko is better suited to breading proteins than regular breadcrumbs as they adhere more effectively and absorb less fat, preventing fried foods from becoming soggy. Thankfully, gluten-free panko is now available from specialist stores and some larger supermarkets, with Orgran being the most commonly found brand in Australia. If gluten-free panko is unavailable, ordinary gluten-free dried breadcrumbs will suffice.

Making a large batch of arancini is worthwhile, as they can be frozen for up to two months once fried. To reheat frozen arancini, place them on a baking tray and bake at 190°C fan/210°C for 20 minutes without thawing. When making a large batch, an arancini mould is a useful gadget. I prefer using an 80 g mould, available from Italian cooking suppliers. My local supplier offers both cone and round moulds in 160g and 80g sizes.

Arancini even have their own day of celebration - the 13th of December, the feast of St Lucia. The tradition is to avoid bread and pasta on this day, so arancini are sold to commemorate the feast.

Recipe

Makes 14 x 80 g balls

• 60 g butter

• 1 tbl olive oil

• 1 shallot, finely diced

• 2 cups arborio rice

• 1 l vegetable stock

• 300 g Swiss brown mushrooms, finely diced

• 100 g Parmesan, grated

• 200 g goat cheese, cut into 14 pieces

Coating:

• 100 g plain flour (GF)

• 180 ml water

• 2 eggs

• 350 g panko breadcrumbs (GF)

• Sunflower oil for frying

In a large saucepan, melt the butter with the olive oil. Add the shallot and gently fry until translucent. Add the rice and stir. Cook for 1-2 minutes. Add the mushrooms and mix well. Gradually add the stock, stirring well after each addition until well absorbed. Continue until rice is cooked but al dente (approx 20 minutes). Stir through parmesan. Spread cooked rice onto a cold tray to cool until lukewarm / room temperature.

Once rice is at room temperature, form rice balls with wet hands, using a heaped ice cream scoop of rice for each. Alternatively use an arancini mould. Stuff each rice ball with a cube of goat's cheese and form a tight ball to enclose the cheese. Continue until 14 are made.

To crumb

In a medium-sized bowl beat together the water, flour and eggs.

Place the panko crumbs on a plate.

Dip each ball into the egg mixture and then roll in the panko crumbs until evenly coated.

Heat oil to 190˚C. Toss in a breadcrumb and if it starts sizzling immediately, the oil is hot enough. Gently immerse the arancini in the oil, until golden brown 3-4 minutes. Don't overcrowd the pan as it drops the temperature of the oil. Drain on absorbent paper. Repeat with remaining balls.

Great served with a salad and tomato chutney.

updated November 2023