Massaman curry

 Over time, Australia has evolved into a diverse multicultural society, with our food scene reflecting influences from all four corners of the globe. This transformation is epitomised by one dish in particular: the curry.

As a child in the 1970s, the term 'curry' evoked an image of a singular meal: sausages smothered in a rich, hearty sauce made with Keens curry powder. This Australian classic was often softened with raisins, apple, or banana to temper its heat, but it was a far cry from the complex, spicy dishes of our Asian neighbours. Back then, curry was synonymous with spice and heat, loaded with chilli. On a personal note, the first meal Myles ever cooked for me was a vindaloo - a fiery, spice-laden revelation that's a tale for another day.

The beauty of Massaman curry lies in its adjustability: you can dial up the heat with extra chilli, but it's not essential. Its warmth comes from a generous use of spices and the careful charring of aromatics to maximise their flavours. The blend of salty fish sauce, bitter tamarind, sweet palm sugar, fragrant lemongrass and galangal, and tangy lime results in a superbly balanced palate. Massaman curry, a Thai dish, is a fusion of Indian flavours with Thai ingredients. In Thailand, it's traditionally used in chicken curries, complying with Muslim dietary restrictions, but in Australia, it's often prepared with beef.

This recipe yields more paste than needed for a single meal. You can store the extra paste in a clean, airtight jar in the fridge for up to six months.

While there are many commercially available massaman curry pastes, the freshness and depth of a homemade version are incomparable. Once you taste the difference, I'm confident you'll find the additional effort well worth it..

Serves 4

Curry paste:

• 6 dried long red chillies, deseeded

• 1 tsp shrimp paste

• 2 tsp ground coriander

• 2 tsp ground cumin

• 1 tsp ground cinnamon

• ¼ tsp ground cloves

• ½ tsp ground cardamom

• 1 tsp ground white pepper

• 3 shallots, chopped

• 4 cloves garlic, peeled

• 1 stalk lemongrass, white section only (keep green for the curry)

• 1 tsp palm sugar or brown sugar

• 3 cm piece of galangal or ginger, peeled and thinly sliced

Curry:

• 750 g diced beef (chuck steak is best)

• 2 cups beef stock

• ¼ cup vegetable oil

• 400 ml coconut milk

• 1 cinnamon stick

• 1 tsp tamarind paste

• 1 tbl fish sauce

• 6 cocktail potatoes, halved

• 3 tbl peanuts

• 1 lime, cut into wedges

• Steamed jasmine rice, to serve

To make the curry paste:

Place chillies in a heatproof bowl. Cover with boiling water. Stand for 20 minutes or until soft. Drain well. Roughly chop.

Wrap shrimp paste in foil. Heat in a frypan over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes each side or until roasted.

Blend or process chillies, roasted shrimp paste, coriander, cumin, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, white pepper and 1 tablespoon cold water until smooth. Add remaining ingredients, 1 at a time, blending well after each addition until mixture forms a thick paste.

To make the curry:

Place the beef in a large pot. Add the beef stock and lemongrass green sections. The beef should be almost covered. If not add extra water.

Bring to the boil and then simmer gently for 1.5 hours until beef is very tender.

Remove beef from the pan and set aside. Discard the lemongrass.

Reduce the liquid until you have 375 ml, then set aside.

In a separate pot heat oil. Add 4 tablespoon of curry paste and fry for 2-3 minutes until thick and fragrant. Add coconut milk and stir well. 

Add cinnamon stick and reserved beef liquid. Reduce the heat and simmer for 3 minutes.

Stir in fish sauce and tamarind.

Add the potatoes and cook for 7-8 minutes until potatoes are tender.

Add the beef to the pot and simmer for 2-3 minutes. Test for seasoning and adjust as needed. You may add a little water if the sauce is getting too thick.

Remove the cinnamon stick prior to serving over Jasmine rice with scattered peanuts and a lime wedge.

Updated November 2023